Inground Pool Plumbing: How to Plumb a Pool

Understanding Inground Pool Plumbing

Before we delve into the specifics of how to plumb an inground pool, let's first define the concept of pool plumbing. Pool plumbing refers to the underground pipes that connect the pool with the filter equipment. These pipes include suction lines like skimmers and main drains, as well as a return line that carries water from the pool filter back to the wall return inlets. Additionally, other plumbing lines may be connected to step jets, a pool cleaner line, or various water features. It's important to note that pool plumbing is typically done midway through the pool construction process, after the pool walls have been erected.

Materials for Inground Pool Plumbing

To start the plumbing process, you'll need to gather the necessary materials. Begin by measuring the distance from your equipment pad to the skimmer, main drain, returns, and any other plumbing lines. This will determine the amount of pipe and fittings you require. If you've purchased an inground pool kit from In The Swim, you'll find that it includes all the essentials for plumbing your pool. However, if your pad is located far from the pool or you're adding additional features, you may need to purchase extra pipe, PVC fittings, and valves. Here's a list of the materials typically included in an inground pool plumbing kit:

100′ - 1.5″ Sch 40 Flex pipe
4 - 1.5″ Tee fittings
5 - 1.5″ 90-degree fittings
4 - 1.5″ Couplings
2 - 1.5″ Unions
4 - 1.5″ Male adapters
2 - 1.5″ 3-way valves
4 - 1.5″ Street elbow
1 Qt Ultra Grip Blue
1 Qt Purple Primer
Teflon Tape

In addition to these materials, you'll also need a measuring tape, a power saw, and sandpaper to smooth off any rough edges after cutting the pipe. Teflon tape and silicone are used for threaded fittings. It's always handy to have a cloth on hand to quickly wipe up any glue that may ooze out during the process, ensuring a neat and professional finish.

Understanding Pipe Specifications and Fittings

Before diving into the plumbing process, it's essential to familiarize yourself with different pipe specifications and fittings. This knowledge will help you select the right materials for your pool plumbing. Pipe specifications are denoted by terms like Sch 20, Sch 40, and Sch 80, which refer to the thickness of the pipe wall. Sch stands for Schedule, and the number indicates the wall thickness. For example, Schedule 20 pipe has a thickness of 0.100″, while Schedule 40 pipe has a 0.150″ wall thickness. Schedule 80 pipe, on the other hand, is a gray PVC pipe with a 0.200″ wall thickness. It's worth noting that Schedule 80 fittings can be used if you encounter any issues with melting, shrinking, or leaking of Sch 40 fittings. However, it's important to use Schedule 40 pipe for standard pool plumbing and not to use Sch 20 pipe on pressurized lines.

To successfully plumb your inground pool, you need to be familiar with commonly used PVC fittings. Here are six fittings you'll likely encounter during the plumbing process:

Coupling: Used for joining two sections of pipe.
90-degree fitting: An elbow fitting that turns the pipe 90 degrees.
45-degree fitting: Also known as a half-elbow, it turns the pipe 45 degrees.
MTA (Male threaded adapter): A fitting with male threads on one side and a slip connection on the other.
FTA (Female threaded adapter): A fitting with female threads on one side and a slip connection on the other.
Tee: A 3-way fitting with one pipe coming in and two pipes going out.

Plumbing Your Pool Light Conduit

The pool light conduit is an important component of your pool's electrical system. To install the conduit, you'll need 3/4″ gray conduit, which is typically available in 10′ lengths. If necessary, you may also need 90 or 45-degree fittings to accommodate turns. The conduit should run from the pool junction box to the pool light niche, which is mounted on the pool wall. Ideally, the junction box should be located either at the equipment pad or closer to the pool light, depending on the proximity of the pool light cord. It's important to ensure that the junction box is at least 10 feet away from the pool and positioned 18″ above the water level. This ensures compliance with safety regulations and protects the electrical system from water damage.

Backfilling the Trenches

Once you've completed the plumbing and the pool pump and filter system are operational, it's time to backfill the trenches. It's advisable to wait until this stage to ensure that the plumbing is free of leaks. Begin by installing the faceplates and flooding the lines. Let the system run for a day, checking for any wet spots on dry soil. If there are no signs of leakage, you can proceed to backfill the soil around the pool and in the pipe trenches. Ensure that you fill and compact the soil gently, avoiding excessive pressure on the underground pipes and fittings. It's also a good idea to water the soil around the pipes to ensure proper support.

Tips for Making a Glue Joint

Creating a secure and leak-free glue joint is crucial for the success of your pool plumbing. Follow these tips to achieve a strong connection:

Make straight cuts across the pipe using a sharp hacksaw or reciprocating saw.
Remove any rough edges or burrs on the pipe using sandpaper or emery cloth.
Apply a PVC primer on both the pipe and fitting before gluing.
Apply a liberal amount of fresh PVC glue to both the pipe and fitting.
Use deep socket pressure fittings, preferably Schedule 40, for a secure connection.
Push the pipe fully into the fitting and hold it firmly for 20 seconds after gluing.

The Steps to Plumb an Inground Pool

Now that you're equipped with the necessary information and materials, let's walk through the steps to plumb an inground pool:

Measure and plan: Create a plumbing diagram and measure twice before cutting any pipes. Dry fit all the pipes and fittings together before gluing to ensure a precise fit.
Dig a trench: Have the operator dig a trench from the pool to the equipment pad. The trench should be at least 2 ft wide and 2 ft deep to accommodate all the plumbing lines and electrical conduit.
Gather equipment: Set up your equipment pad using a steel reinforced concrete slab or a sturdy HVAC skid on a gravel base. Space out your equipment for proper airflow and serviceability.
Begin with the pump: Install a PVC union at the front of the pump for easy removal during servicing. Connect a short piece of pipe from the union to a 3-way Jandy valve. The Jandy valve will separate the main drain and skimmer lines.
Connect the main drains: Dig a small hole at the bottom center of the pool and place two main drains, spaced 3 ft apart. Connect a piece of pipe between the two drains using a Tee fitting. From the Tee, run a pipe through the deep end slope and up underneath the wall. Extend the pipe outside of the wall and connect it to the filter pump.
Plumbing the skimmer: Connect the Hayward wide-mouth skimmer to the wall panel using the provided cut-out. Attach a pipe to the rear hole of the skimmer, leaving the front hole plugged. Use Teflon tape and silicone sealant on the fitting to ensure a watertight connection. Connect the other end of the pipe to the fitting at the bottom of the skimmer and run it back to the filter pump.
Plumbing the returns: Connect the pool pump to the multiport valve on the sand filter. Use rigid PVC or flexible pipe to make the connection, depending on your preference. From the multiport valve, run two pipes with Street Elbows pointing down to the ground. Connect these pipes to the returns located on opposite sides or ends of the pool.
Additional equipment: If you have a pool heater, plumb the return side slightly differently. Run the pipe in and out of the heater before connecting it to the return side Jandy valve. If you're installing an off-line chemical feeder, drill two small holes in the return pipe. For saltwater chlorine systems or in-line chemical feeders, install them after the filter and before the return side Jandy valve.
Pressure testing: Before backfilling, it's crucial to pressure test your pool plumbing to ensure it's leak-free. Use a pressure testing stick with a gauge or a Drain King connected to a garden hose. Plug all ports, open all valves, and turn on the hose to fill the plumbing with water. Check for any leakage and ensure a tight seal before proceeding.
Future piping plans: If you anticipate adding water features or additional equipment in the future, it's wise to run underground pipes during the initial installation. Cap off any unused pipes that may stub up out of the ground or connect them through the pool wall with a wall return fitting.

Flex Pipe vs. Rigid PVC Pipe

When it comes to selecting the right pipe for your inground pool plumbing, you have two options: flex pipe or rigid PVC pipe. Flex pipe is more flexible and easier to work with. It lays flat in the trenches and makes turns without requiring additional fittings. Flex pipe also compacts in the soil more effectively and is less prone to breakage. On the other hand, rigid PVC pipe offers better resistance against chemical degradation and potential damage from soil-dwelling earwigs. Many pool builders use a combination of both materials, such as using flex pipe for underground plumbing and transitioning to rigid PVC above the ground for a professional and secure finish.

Pool Plumbing Tips and Techniques

To ensure a successful pool plumbing project, keep these tips and techniques in mind:

Make a plumbing diagram and measure twice before cutting any pipes. Dry-fit everything together to ensure a precise fit.
Minimize the use of 90-degree and 45-degree fittings to reduce resistance in the system.
Support above-ground pipes properly and leave ample room for equipment servicing and repairs.
Plumb the system in the correct order: from the pump to the filter, then to the heater, chlorinator, or salt system.
Avoid creating plumbing loops where freezing water can get trapped.
Make straight pipe cuts with a sharp hacksaw or reciprocating saw and de-burr the pipes afterward.
Clean the pipes and fittings thoroughly with PVC pipe cleaner before applying glue.
Apply a liberal amount of fresh PVC glue to both the fitting and the pipe and firmly hold the joint for 10-15 seconds.
Use Teflon tape and silicone on threaded fittings to prevent cracks and leakage, but avoid over-tightening.

Conclusion

Plumbing an inground pool may seem like a complex undertaking, but with careful planning, the right materials, and attention to detail, it can be a rewarding DIY project. By following this step-by-step guide and keeping these tips and techniques in mind, you'll be able to plumb your pool efficiently and ensure a leak-free and properly functioning system. Remember to pressure test your plumbing before backfilling and reach out to our pool plumbers at In The Swim if you have any questions or encounter any difficulties along the way. Enjoy the process and take pride in building your own inground pool!

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